Black And White Smock/Maternity Top

My, it's been a while. And 2 days till Christmas! I've been busy busy busy-tidying up house, getting rid of unused things, doing some spring cleaning, running after my Little Wyld Man, who isn't so little anymore. And also, I'm pregnant again! In between getting all of these done, I managed to pull together a simple smock from a Burda magazine, using some left over material from my maternity/nursing cocktail dress.

I was itching to sew something, but was too lazy to draft from scratch, so I decided I must make something quick and simple. I had some Burda magazines from the library and this little number caught my eye.



I love the simple lines, the yoke, and the pleats, which will allow for a growing belly. This is how it was made up in the magazine-in plaid.



I wasn't too big on it, but I really liked the stylelines, and decided to make it.



This is the pattern sheet. You have to find the correct colour codes for the  pattern which can get confusing. In this case, I'm using the patterns outlined in blue. Burda patterns come without seam allowances, so you have to add them yourself.



I traced out the pattern using some tracing paper, and added a 5/8 of an inch seam allowance. You can use anything see through that is big enough, such as cheap sew-in interfacing, or even freezer paper taped together.



I've cut out my pattern pieces. This is a simple pattern, so only 6 pieces altogether.  Should come together pretty quickly. I've labelled each piece so that you'll know what I'm referring to below.

The pattern markings must be marked onto the fabric at this point. I used to use tailor's tacks, but now I just make a 3/5 inch snip into the seam allowance to mark centre points, pleating points, etc.



I've also cut out fusible interfacing for the facing front and back pieces, as well as the yoke. The fusible interfacing I'm using is a tricot knit, which is suitable for most light and medium weight materials. The interfacing serves to stabilise the area, and by this I mean that it will stop the fabric from stretching as you sew and handle it. It also prevents wrinkles and gives a bit more body to the fabric, although you don't want to use interfacing that is too heavy, as this will change the hand/feel of the fabric undesirably. The interfacing should be cut using the same pattern piece, or slightly smaller.

To fuse, press with an up-down motion on a steam and wool setting till it fuses to the fabric. Wait till cool before moving.

Before stitching anything together, I finish the edges with my overlocker. Or you can use a zigzag stitch with a normal sewing machine.



Here, I've stitched the pleats in the front first. My order of construction is always to finish the details on the front garment, piece all front pieces together, then finish back details such as the zipper, and joint the front to the back at the shoulder seams and side seams. The sleeves  and hem are last.

In stitching the pleats, the pattern markings and centre points guide me and I don't struggle to measure the pleating afterwards. I stitch vertically at each pleat to keep the pleats together, then horizontally across the pleats and the whole neckline.



The front yoke is joined to the main front, matching the centre points in the middle. The seam allowance is pressed upwards at the back.



Here's I'm stitching the side seams. The shoulder seams are next. When this is done, test for fit. As this was a loose smock, the fit aside from the shoulders, weren't essential. This top was drafted with a zipper in the back. When I tried it on, I found that it slipped easily over my head and shoulders, so I decided to omit the zipper.

Press the seams open and flat.



Here, I'm stitching the back neck facings together at the centre back seam. Next the back neck facing is joined to the front neck facing at the shoulder seams.



This is what it looks like. Press the seams open and flat. Remember, sew and press as you go.



Join the facing to the main garment at the neck edge, lining shoulder seams on both facing and main garment together. Make sure the centre points of the facing matches the centre point on the main garment. Sew with 5/8 inch seam allowance.

When this is done, turn the facing underneath and this finishes the neckline edge. However, you will find that it flips upwards very inconveniently. To remedy, you'll need to understitch.



Open up the facing, and use your fingers to press the seam allowance towards the facing. Position your needle so that it is close to the seam line, but not on it, towards the facing. Sew the seam allowances to the facing. This is called understitching. This keeps the facing from flipping up a certain extent. However, you'll need to clip the seam allowance as per below.



Clip at 1 inch intervals, or less where there is a sharper curve. This releases the fabric and lets it lie flat when you turn the facing under. Be careful to clip close to, but not onto the stitching line.

Next, we finish the hem on the sleeve.



I'm doing a double rolled hem by hand-you can do it by a narrow hemming foot, but I wanted to try this technique instead. Turn the edge wrong sides together around 1/4 inch and sew close to the edge. Using the tailor's awl helps immensely as the sharp point guides the hem under the presser foot.



Now turn over the second time and do the same. Press the hem flat.

Before sewing the sleeve into the armhole, you have to prepare the sleeve for 'easing'. The sleeve cap is drafted with extra length, usually about 1-2 cm longer than the armhole. The extra fabric must be eased into the armhole without puckering. This can be a challenge, but with practice comes perfection. To prepare the sleeve, sew a gathering stitch (I use the longest stitch length) inside the seam allowance.



The pattern will have a dot/mark where easing begins. Sew from this point with big stitches. Do not backstitch. Leave a long thread length at each end.



Pull the gathering threads and gather the sleeve cap evenly. The gathers must be 'gentle' rather than 'hard'.



Pin the sleeve cap onto the armhole wtih as many pins as you need. As this is a cap sleeve, and not a full sleeve, find the markings on the armhole where the sleep cap begins and ends. The 1/3 of the lower armhole will be finished with a bias binding. Stitch sleeve to armhole at 5/8 inch seam allowance.



For the bias binding, I cut 1 inch strips on the bias, 16cm in length. These need to be folded in half and pressed. As this is on the bias, it is stretchy and can be shaped into a curve by pressing, as per below.



To attach the binding to the lower armhole, pin the so that the folded edge sits 2.7cm from the armhole edge.



Why 2.7cm? Because it is 5/8 inch plus 1cm. And when you stitch it in 5/8 inch from the armhole edge,and turn the bias binding under, it will match the finished edge of the cap sleeve perfectly. Magic!



Sew 5/8 inch from the edge of the armhole, catching the middle of the bias binding.



Trim aways the ends of the binding, and the seam allowance so that only 1/4 of the bias binding remains.



Turn under and edgestitch close to the edge, making sure the stitching catches and holds the bias binding underneath. Press flat.

Hem the bottom with a double rolled hem.

Finito!



Front view.



Back view.



Closeup of the front.

I'm rather pleased with this top. However, the neckline does gape a bit. So the next time I use this pattern, I'll do a slight gaposis adjustment. But for now, Merry Christmas everyone!

Motherhood

I've had my little prince for over 5 weeks now and I still can't get over him. Everyday I wake up and remind myself that I'm a mother now and that there's a little person utterly dependant on me. It is a wonderful but heavy responsibility. His every smile and sound and movement is a little miracle for me. I can't believe that he is the little baby I carried in the womb for 9 months! He's getting so big now, growing an average of 2 cm a week-at 5 1/2 weeks he is 60cm long, from 50cm when he was born.

He loves having his bath, and he loves being held. He likes listening to music - it calms him down and makes him sleep. He loves curling up on my chest and sleeping. Everyday I discover something new about him. He is starting to look around him and taking an interest in things. He has a wonderful personality and everyday is made more beautiful because of him.

Being a stay-at-home mum is wonderful. I can't imagine being away from my little prince for any length of time. I love being around my little man and just watching him sleep, or listen to him gurgling and playing. People and told me that everything will change after the little one is born. No social life, sleepless nights, nappies and and crying. Yes, things have changed. But only for the better. What are dirty nappies and sleepless nights when there are beautiful smiles and beaming eyes looking at you? Who needs parties and late nights out when my little prince fills all of my days with joy? Our lives have definitely changed for the better.

Being a mother makes you appreciate all the emotions and feelings that other mothers go through. Love, anxiety, joy, fear, delight. The pain of labour. The satisfaction of giving birth to a healthy baby. Exhilaration and exhaustion.  All of the above and everything in between. It makes you appreciate my own mother and what she went through giving birth to me and bringing me up. Who did fly all the way here to look after me for three weeks after the birth.  Thank you Mi.

Motherhood is such a beautiful thing.

And as I write this, he is curled up on my chest, snoring and sleeping peacefully.

Deo Gratias!

White Maternity Top

I had quite a lot of material left over from the white maternity skirt I finished 3 days ago, and decided to make a top to go with it. I also had Wyld Man's grandma's 80th birthday party to go to on Saturday, I thought to quickly whip a top up. I started with a sketch.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="426" caption="A sketch of my maternity outfit"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Deciding on the style lines of the top"][/caption]

I had to draft this pattern from scratch.  So out came my Aldrich block.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="My Winifred Alrich Close Fitting Bodice Block in size 12"][/caption]

I needed to trace off a block on newspaper which I could cut out and move around to determine the style lines.

If you look closely, you will see an orange line above the waist line and below the armhole line-that's my maternity/empire waistline,  under which I extend the pattern to accomodate a baby bump. Any pattern can be modified to become a maternity pattern. Just determine where the bump starts, and draw a line across-normally 2-3 inches below the bustline.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Getting ready to trace a block. Here, I layer carbon sheets on the bottom facing up, a large piece of newspaper, and the block which I want to trace off."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Laying out my trusty pattern weights."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Here you can just see the faint outline of the bodice I've traced. I'm going to cut it out."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="These are the top part of the pattern above the maternity line, cut with princess seams, without seam allowances."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Here I've closed the bust dart with tape and drawn the style lines in red, which I will cut out."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Cutting out the style lines"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Here I am determining the length of the back shoulder seam, and drawing the back neckline."][/caption]

After cutting the style lines, I trace off the pattern pieces on a separate piece of newspaper with seam allowances.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Pattern pieces with seam allowances outlined in red."][/caption]

Next, the sleeves.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="This is my one-piece sleeve block from my Aldrich book without seam allowances. Single noth denotes the front, double notch denotes the back."][/caption]

I wanted a slightly flared sleeve so...

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="I slashed the sleeve block to make a flared sleeve, and traced around the sleeve with seam allowances."][/caption]

I made facings for the front and back neckline-not shown here.

The bottom front and back panels were easy-not much manipulation involved, except for the fact that I extended the front centre line by about 5 inches to gathers. However, I later found that I had made a mistake and only extended the front by 1 inch-AFTER the material had been cut-don't know how that happened. So instead of gathers like in the sketch, I made an inverted pleat by cutting down the front centre line, and adding in a square of material into it.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Final pattern pieces all cut out."][/caption]

I decided to make a muslin (test garment) to try out the fit. I only needed to try the top of the blouse, so I cut out the top part of the pattern from an old bedsheet I picked up at an opshop. In hindsight, I should have made a muslin of the whole top, in order to catch the mistake on the front bottom panels where the gathers were supposed to be.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Laying out the pattern on the op shop bedsheet for my muslin."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="The cut pattern pieces for the muslin."][/caption]

I tacked all the important joining points for the muslin-princess seamlines are hard to put together without them.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="The finished muslin."][/caption]

I tried it on and was quite happy with the fit, so I proceeded to cut it out of the white linen.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Laying out pattern pieces on the linen for cutting."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="The linen material all cut out."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Tailor tacking all the points and notches to ease of joining all the pieces together EXACTLY."][/caption]

Now I need to finish the edges of all the cut material.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Overlocking all the edges of the material."][/caption]

I overlock all edges except the sleeve cap and the necklines on the main garment and the necklines of the facings. This is because the later seams will be enclosed, and the former will have the seam allowances trimmed off and reserged/re-overlocked.

I don't know what I'd do without my overlocker. For one, I wouldn't be sewing clothes at all-I'd still be stuck just sewing things like cloth nappies. I hate the look of raw unfinished edges on garments-didn't see any point attempting to make one at all if I couldn't finish the insides properly. And I don't suscribe to the pink and stitch school of things.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Here I've matched tailor tacks between the front top panel with the side panel."][/caption]

Tailor's tacks makes joining princess seams sooooo easy. I used to spend ages trying to get the two opposing curves on princess seams to match. This was a cinch.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="I've also made little notches on the curves of the princess seams to ease it into the opposing seam."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="This is how the front top panel looks pin basted together."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Ironing out the curved seam on a rolled up nappy."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Here I've joined the armhole piece to the front top panel."][/caption]

At this point, I started joining the bottom extended panel to the top, but realised that there was only 2 inches of excess material for the gathers I had intended. I decided to make an inverted pleat instead of gathers by cutting down the centre front line of the bottom panel, and adding in 10 inches of fabric for an inverted pleat. However, before I did that, I finished making up the back panel pieces.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="The back panel pieces."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="The 10 inch square of fabric I cut out for the inverted pleat. Had to overlock the edges of that."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="This is the finished front piece with the inverted pleat at the bottom"][/caption]

Next, I joined the shoulder seams and the side and back seams together.

Then, the facings.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="I joined the neck facings together"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Joining the facings to the neckline"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Trimming the seam allowances under the facings to reduce bulk-also called grading."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Here, I understitch the facing to the seam allowances to prevent the facings from turning upwards"][/caption]

Next up, the sleeves. Sleeve caps are normally 1-2 cms longer than the armhole length. This requires the excess fabric to be eased into the armhole. This has to be done without puckering, which is easy to do if unfamiliar with the technique outlined below.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Here I make a long running stitch between the notches on my sleeve cap and pull the threads to make a slight gather. This allows me to ease the sleeve into the armhole."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Insert the sleeve into the armhole right sides together. Pin baste from the side seams up and distribute the gathers at the sleeve cap evenly. Pin in small intervals to ensure even easing of the sleeve into the armhole and to prevent puckering."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Sew with the sleeve facing upwards and away from the needle plate."][/caption]

This prevents puckers from appearing, which is easy to do if the sleeve was facing downwards while you sew it into the armhole.

I'm almost finished!

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Pinning up my hem"][/caption]

I'm making a blind hem, which require me to fold the hem twice, once unto the wrong side 5/8 inch up, and then back onto the opposing side, just enough for the overlocked edge to show, just like in the picture.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="I use my adjustable blind hem foot and set the machine to do a blindhem stitch."][/caption]

I give the top a through press.

And I'm finished!

I've put both my maternity skirt and the top together for pictures.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Front view"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="639" caption="Back view."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="321" caption="My whole outfit"][/caption]

I decided that I needed a belt to break up the white-it looked a bit boring without it. But the top and the skirt are great separates for a mix and match look.